Horological Terms
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z
Click on the letter above
to be directed to the appropriate letter.
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A
A.H.P.: Automatic High Precision. A swinging rotor
drives a mini-generator. Its electric power is stored in a
capacitor, which supplies energy to the quartz-controlled
integrated circuit.
A.S.S. :
Servo-controlled motor drive. The system, integrated in the
circuit, lengthens the duration of motor impulse when the
mechanism meets resistance (during date-change for example)
and reverts to the normal duration when the resistance ends.
The technique increases battery life by 30%
Alarm: A device that
sounds a signal at a pre-set time.
Altimeter: A device that determines altitude by responding
to changes in barometric pressure.
Anadigi Display: A
display that shows the time both by means of hour and minute
hands (an analog display) and by numbers (a digital display)
Analog Display: A
display that shows the time by means of hands and a dial.
Analog quartz: The
most commonly-used term in referring to any analog timepiece
that operates on a battery or on solar power and is
regulated by a quartz crystal.
Analog Watch: A
watch with a dial, hands, and numbers or markers that
present a total display of 12-hour time span. Analog digital
refers to a watch that has both a digital display and hands
of a conventional watch.
Aperture: Small
opening. The dials of some watches (in French: montres ŕ
guichet) have apertures in which certain indications are
given (e.g. the date, the hour, etc).
Assembling: Process
of fitting together the components of a movement. This was
formerly done entirely by hand, but the operations have now
been largely automated. Nevertheless, the human element is
still primordial, especially for inspection and testing.
Atmosphere (Atm): Unit of pressure used in watch making to
indicate water-resistance.
Atomic time standard:
Provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and
Technology, Time and Frequency Division, Boulder, Colorado,
atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a
metal isotope that resembles mercury. The result is
extremely accurate time that can be measured on instruments.
Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout North
America and some "atomic" watches can receive them and
correct to the exact time. To synchronize your watch with
atomic standard time, call (303) 499-7111.
Automatic Movement:
A mechanical movement that requires no winding because the
rotor, part of the automatic mechanism, winds the mainspring
every time you move your hand. The first automatic movement
was invented in Switzerland by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the
Eighteenth century. When fully wound and left to sit, most
automatics have up to 36 hours of reserve power. Mechanical
movements are accurate within one minute each day. Automatic
movements have gained in popularity the last few years
especially with watch connoisseurs and are considered to be
Switzerland's mechanical answer to the popularity of the
no-winding-needed quartz movements that are standard in
Japanese watches.
Auto Repeat Countdown
Timer: A countdown timer that resets itself as soon as
the preset time has elapsed and starts the countdown again.
It repeats the countdown continuously until the wearer
pushes the stop button.
Automatic Watch: A
watch whose mainspring is wound by the movements or
accelerations of the wearer's arm. On the basis of the
principle of terrestrial attraction, a rotor turns and
transmits its energy to the spring by means of an
appropriate mechanism. The system was invented in
Switzerland by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th century.
Automatic Winding:
(also called "self-winding") Winding that occurs through the
motion of the wearer's arm rather than through turning the
winding stem. It works by means of a rotor that turns in
response to motion, thereby winding up the watch's
mainspring. An automatic watch that is not worn for a day or
two will wind down and need to be wound by hand to get it
started again.
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B
Baguette: Ladies style watch with a thin, elongated
faces; usually rectangular in shape but may be oval.
Balance Spring: A
very fine spring (also called a "hair spring") in a
mechanical watch that returns the balance wheel back to a
neutral position.
Balance Wheel: The
part of a mechanical watch movement that oscillates,
dividing time into equal segments. Lengthening or shortening
the balance-spring makes the balance-wheel go faster or
slower to advance or retard the watch.
Barrel: Thin
cylindrical box containing the mainspring of a watch. The
toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.
Bar/lug: A small rod with a sprung pivot at either end to
fix the strap (band) to the case.
Base metal: Any
non-precious metal.
Battery: Device that
converts chemical energy into electricity. Most watch
batteries are silver oxide type delivering 1.5 volts. Much
longer-lasting lithium batteries are 3 volt.
Battery Life: The
minimum period of time that a battery will continue to
provide power to run the watch. Life begins at the point of
manufacture when the factory initially installs the battery
Battery Reserve Indicator: See "power reserve indicator".
Bezel: The surface
ring on the watch, usually made of gold, gold plate or
steel, that surrounds the crystal in place. A rotating
ratchet bezel moves in some sport watches as part of the
timing device. If rotating bezels are bi-directional, able
to move clockwise or counter clockwise, they can assist in
calculations for elapsed times.
Bi-directional Rotating
Bezel: A bezel that can be moved either clockwise or
counterclockwise. These are used for mathematical
calculations or for keeping track of elapsed time.
Bracelet: Flexible metal band consisting of assembled links,
usually in the same style as the case. Detachable links
change the length of the bracelet.
Brass: Copper and
zinc alloy used to make the main plate and bridge wheels in
the movement.
Buckle: Usually
matching the case, it attaches the two parts of the leather
strap around the wrist.
Button: Push piece
controls, usually at 2 o'clock and/or 4 o'clock on the dial
to control special functions such as the chronograph or the
alarm.
Bridge:
Complementary part fixed to the main plate to form the frame
of a watch movement. The other parts are mounted inside the
frame.
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C
Cabochon: Decorative stone which has been carved into a
round shape.
Cabochon crown: A
rounded semi-precious stone or synthetic material usually
black, fitted into the watch crown as an ornament.
Calendar: A feature
that shows the day of the month, and often the day of the
week and the year. There are several types of calendar
watches. It can be displayed through a cut-out window in the
dial, as a sud-dial with small hands indicating the day/date
feature or by digital readout.
Caliber: A term
often used by Swiss watchmakers to denote a particular model
type, such as Caliber 48 meaning model 48. More commonly,
the term is used to indicate the movement's shape, layout,
or size.
Cambered: Often used
in referring to a curved or arched dial or bezel.
Carat (Karat): Unit of gold fineness (and gemstone weight).
Pure gold is 24k. 18k gold is 75% pure.
Case: The metal
housing of a watch's parts. Stainless steel is the most
typical metal used but titanium, gold, silver, and platinum
can also be used. Less expensive watches are usually made of
brass and plated with gold or silver.
Case back: The
reverse side of a watch case that lies against the skin. May
be transparent to allow viewing of the inner workings of the
watch or be solid. Most manufacturers engrave case backs
with their name, water and shock resistance, case metal
content and other details.
Chime: The bell-like
sound made when a clock strikes on the hour, half hour, etc.
Two familiar chimes traditionally found in clocks are the
Westminster chime made by the famous Big Ben in London, and
the bim bam, a two note chime.
Chronograph: A
stopwatch, i.e., a timer that can be started and stopped to
time an event. There are many variations on the chronograph.
Some operate with a center seconds hand which keeps time on
the watch's main dial. Others use sub dials to elapsed
hours, minutes and seconds. Still others show elapsed time
on a digital display on the watch face. When a chronograph
is used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch
face, it can perform many different functions, such as
determining speed or distance. Some chronographs can time
more than one event at a time. Do not confuse the term
"chronograph" with "chronometer". The latter refers to a
timepiece, which may or may not have a chronograph function
that has met certain high standards of accuracy set by an
official watch institute in Switzerland. Watches that
include the chronograph function are themselves called
"chronographs".
Chronometer: This
term refers to a precision watch that is tested in various
temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy
standards set by an official institute in Switzerland. Most
watch companies provide a certificate with your chronometer
purchase.
Clasp: The
attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch
bracelet or strap around the wrist.
- Deployment Buckle—a
three-folding enclosure, which secures the two ends of
the bracelet and allows enough room for placing the
watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the
buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism
- Fold-Over Buckle—See
Deployment buckle
- Hook Lock—two separate
units each fitting on either end of the bracelet which
allows the watch to be laid out. One end of the closure
hooks onto the other to secure the two ends of the
bracelet.
- Jeweler's Clasp—a
closure that is generally used on better bracelets. Also
allows it to lie flat.
- Sliding Clasp—also a
hook type method but allows for easy sizing of the
bracelet by sliding up.
- Twist Lock—a closure
similar to Jeweler's Clasp used on ladies jewelry
bracelets.
- Complication -a watch
with other functions besides time keeping. For example,
a chronograph is a watch complication. Other
complications coveted by watch collectors include:
minute repeater, tourbillion, perpetual calendar, or
split second chronograph.
Complication: A
watch with other functions besides timekeeping. For example,
a chronograph is a watch complication. Other complications
coveted by watch collectors include: minute repeater,
tourbillon, perpetual calendar, or split second chronograph.
Corrector: System to
set the watch indicators (the hour, minute or day) by means
of the crown
COSC: The official
Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute that puts every
chronometer watch through a rigorous, 15-day testing
procedure to verify the watch's precision.
Countdown Timer: A
function that lets the wearer keep track of how much of a
pre-set period of time has elapsed. Some countdown timers
sound a warning signal a few seconds before time runs out --
these are useful in events such as yacht races, where the
sailor must maneuver the boat into position before the start
of a race.
Crown: Button on the
outside of the case that is used to set the time and the
calendar, and, in the mechanical watches, to wind the
mainspring. A nodule extending from the case that is used to
set the time, date, etc. Most pull out to set the time. In
water resistant styles, the crowns should screw down.
Crystal: The
transparent cover on the watch face made of glass crystal,
synthetic sapphire or plastic. The clean cover over the
watch face. Three types of crystals are commonly found in
watches. Acrylic crystal, a plastic, is inexpensive and
shallow scratches can be buffed out. Mineral crystal is
comprised of several elements that are heat treated to
create unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches.
Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable,
approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and
20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non reflective
coating on some sport styles prevents glare.
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D
Day/Date Watch: A watch that indicates not only the date
but also the day of the week.
Day/Night Indicator:
A colored or shaded band on a world time that shows which
time zones are in daylight and which in darkness.
Deployment Buckle: A
type of buckle that pops open and fastens using hinged,
often adjustable, extenders. Though more expensive than a
belt-buckle like closure, a deployment buckle is easier to
put on and remove and is more comfortable on the wrist.
Depth Alarm: An
alarm on a diver's watch that sounds when the wearer exceeds
a pre-set depth. In most watches it stops sounding when the
diver ascends above that depth.
Dial: The watch
face. In high-end watches the numerals, indices and surface
designs are applied as separate elements. In less expensive
watches, they may be simply printed on the dial.
Diachronic: A
liquid-crystal display (LCD) enabling a color to appear or
vanish on the surface.
Digital: Any watch
that shows the time in numbers instead of hands on the dial.
The numbers appear in LCD (liquid crystal diode) which shows
a continuous reading or in LED (light-emitting diode) which
shows time at the push of a button.
Digital watch: A
watch that shows the time through digits rather than through
a dial and hands display.
Directional compass:
Can be displayed by rotating a bezel or digital readout on
the face of the watch. It is used to determine a
geographical direction using the location of the sun.
Direct-drive: A
function that allows the second-hand to advance in intervals
rather than a smooth sweep for more precise timekeeping. The
French term for a direct-drive second hand is a trotteuse.
Divers Watches:
Diver's watches are designed and manufactured especially for
divers whose lives depend on the reliability of their watch
in the water.
Seiko and Pulsar diver's
watches meet ISO (International Standardization
Organization) regulations. Diver’s watches must meet various
standards regarding water resistance, pressure resistance,
readability in the water, time presetting function (rotating
elapsed time bezel), anti-magnetic ability, anti-shock, rust
resistance in salt water, manageability in water, ability to
withstand sudden temperature changes, etc.
Seiko and Pulsar diver's
watches also have features such as:
Rotating Bezel will only rotate counter clockwise. This is
so in case rotated accidentally the bezel will not show an
extended diving duration.
For accurate setting, bezel
also has a one minute interval click.
Inscribed on the case back is the battery replacement month
to prevent the watch from stopping during a dive.
Straps feature extra large
buckles for easy fastening and longer length to allow it to
be worn over a diving suit.
Bezel is set higher than
the surface of the crystal to help protect it.
Large luminous hands and markers are designed for clear
readability.
Please refer to the
Instruction Booklet for "Periodical Check," "Pre-Diving
Check," and "Battery Change Instructions."
Dual timer: A watch
that measures current local time as well as at least one
other time zone. The additional time element may come from a
twin dial, extra hand, sub dials, or other means.
Dual Timer: A watch
that measures current local time as well as at least one
other time zone. The additional time element may come from a
twin dial, extra hand, sub dials, or other means.
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E
E.O.E.: End
of Energy. System used with the AHP alerts the wearer of
accumulator discharge by causing the seconds hand to jump
every four seconds instead of every second. The accumulator
can the be recharged by turning the crown.
E.O.L.: End of Life.
In quartz movement the end of battery life is indicated by
the seconds hand which starts to jump every four seconds.
The battery should be changed immediately.
Electroplating process:
Process of covering metal articles with a film of other
metals. The article is immersed in a chemical solution;
electric current (D.C.) flows through the solution from a
piece of metal (anode) to the article (cathode), depositing
metal thereon by electrolysis. metals which can be used for
plating are: 1) gold—a precious metal generally yellow in
color; 2) chrome—can be white or black; 3) palladium—a
precious metal, generally white; 4) ruthenium—also a
precious metal but usually gray.
Elapsed Time Rotating
Bezel: A graduated rotating bezel used to keep track of
periods of time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can
align the zero on the bezel with the watch's seconds or
minutes hand. He/she can then read the elapsed time off the
bezel. This saves him/her having to perform the subtraction
that would be necessary if he used the watch's regular dial.
Engine Turning:
Decorative engraving, usually on the watch face.
Escapement: Device in a mechanical movement that controls
the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands.
ETA: One of the
leading manufacturers of watch movements based in
Switzerland. ETA movements are used by many major Swiss
watch brands.
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F
Face: The visible side of the watch where the dial is
contained. Most faces are marked with Arabic or Roman
numerals to indicate the hours. Interestingly, when Roman
numerals are used, it is traditional to use IIII, rather
than IV, to indicate the 4 o'clock position.
Fly back hand: A
seconds hand on a chronograph that is used to determine lap
or finishing times for several competitors in race. To
operate, put both the fly back and the regular second hand
in motion, then to record a lap or finishing time, the fly
back hand can be stopped. After taking the results, push a
button and the fly back hand will catch up to the constantly
moving second hand.
Frequency: The
number of vibrations a second, in hertz (Hz).
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G
Gold: Yellow precious metal which is stainless and very
malleable. Used in alloys to make jewelry, bracelets and
watches. The portion of gold in the alloy is indicated in
carats (k).
Gasket: Most water
resistant watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the case
back, crystal, and crown to protect against water
infiltration during normal wear. It is important to have the
gaskets checked every two years to maintain the water
resistance of the watch.
Gear Train: The
system of gears which transmits power from the mainspring to
the escapement.
Gold plating: A
layer of gold that has been electro-deposited onto a metal;
its thickness is measured in microns.
Grande Sonnerie: A
type of repeater that sounds the hours and quarter hours
when the wearer pushes the button.
Guilloche: A style
of intricate engraving that is popular on watch dials,
usually very thin lines interwoven to create a surface
texture.
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H
Hands: The pointing device anchored at the center and
circling around the dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds
and any other special features of the watch.
- Alpha Hands: A
slightly tapered hand
- Baton Hands: A narrow
hand sometimes referred to as a stick hand.
- Dauphine Hands: A
wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center running
the length of the hand.
- Luminous Hands: Hands
made of skeleton form with the opening filled by a
luminous material.
- Skeleton Hands:
Cut-out hands showing only the frame.
Hard metal: A
scratch-resistant metal comprised of binding several
materials, including titanium and tungsten-carbide, which
are then pressed into an extremely hard metal and polished
with diamond powder to add brilliance.
High-Tech Ceramic:
Used as a protective shield for spacecraft reentering the
earth's atmosphere, high-tech ceramic is polished with
diamond dust to create a highly polished finish. Because the
ceramic can be injection molded, pieces can be contoured. It
has a very smooth surface and is usually found in black, but
can be produced in a spectrum of colors.
Horology: The
science of time measurement, including the art of designing
and constructing the timepieces.
Hourly time signal:
Single beep/chime which rings on the hour, every hour when
it is engaged.
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I
Index: An hour indicator on an analog watch dial, used
instead of numerals.
Integrated Bracelet:
A watch bracelet that is integrated into the design of the
case.
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J
Jewels: Synthetic sapphires or rubies that acts as
bearings for gears in the mechanical watch, reducing
friction.
Jump Hour Indicator:
A jump hour indicator takes the place of an hour hand. It
usually shows the hours by means of a numeral in a window.
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K
Kinetic: Based on a revolutionary technology, Seiko,
Kinetic watches run entirely on sell generated energy from
natural movement of your wrist. It never needs a battery.
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L
Lap Memory: The ability, in some quartz sport
watches, to preserve in the watch's memory the times of laps
in a race that have been determined by the lap timer. The
wearer can recall these times on a digital display by
pushing a button.
Lap Timer: A
chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a
race. At the end of a lap, he/she stops the timer, which
then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap.
LCD: Liquid-crystal
display. This digital time display is used by longines to
give additional chronograph indications.
Lighted dials:
Several types of lighted dials are used so that you can tell
time in the dark. Recently, a patented night-lite process,
called electro-luminesce, lights the entire dial with a
uniform light that makes for easy reading in nighttime
situations. A side button activates the light. This
technology often appears under a name brand such as Timex'
Indiglo or Seiko's LumiBrite.
Limited Editions: A
watch style manufactured in a specific amount, often
numbered, and available in limited quantities. Limited
editions are available from most fine watch manufacturers
and may be highly prized by collectors.
Liquid-Crystal Display:
A digital watch display that shows the time electronically
by means of the liquid held in a thin layer between two
transparent plates.
Lugs: Projection on
the watch face to which the watch band/bracelet is attached.
LumiBrite:
environmentally safe illumination technology that will glow
brightly for hours without pushing a button or drawing
energy from a battery.
Luminous: self
illuminating paint used on hands and markers.
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M
Manual: A hand-wound mechanical watch.
Mechanical:
Describes a movement with a balance wheel.
Main Plate: Base
plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are
mounted.
Mainspring: The
driving spring of a watch or clock, contained in the barrel.
Marine Chronometer:
Highly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper enclosed
in a box (hence the term box chronometer), used for
determining the longitude on board ship. Marine chronometers
with mechanical movements are mounted on gimbals so that
they remain in the horizontal position is necessary for
their precision.
Measurement Conversion:
A feature, usually consisting of a graduated scale on the
watch's bezel, that lets the wearer translate one type of
measurement into another -- miles into kilometers, for
instance, or pounds into kilograms.
Mechanical Movement:
A movement based on a mainspring which is wound by hand;
when wound, it slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion.
An automatic mechanical requires no winding because of the
rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move your
wrist.
Micron: Unit of
measurement of the thickness of the gold-coating. 1 micron =
1/1000mm.
Military or 24-hour
time: When time is measured in 24-hour segments. To
convert 12-hour time into 24-hour, simple add 12 to any p.m.
time. To convert 24-hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12
from any time 13 to 24.
Mineral glass: Watch
glass that has been tempered to increase its scratch
resistance.
Minute repeater: A
complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours,
quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece.
Moon phase: A window
in a watch face that shows which phase the moon is. A
regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every
29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. once set, the moon phase
indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.
Mother-of-Pearl:
Iridescent milky interior shell of the freshwater mollusk
that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have
a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other
colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink and salmon.
Movement: The inner
mechanism of watch that keeps time and moves the watch's
hand, calendar, etc. Movements are either mechanical or
quartz.
Mystery Watch: A
patented invention of watchmaker Vincent Calabrese and
produced by Jean Marcel, a Swiss manufacturer, the Mystery
automatic mechanical watch uses no hands to indicate hours,
minutes or seconds. Rather a jumping hour window moves
clockwise around a minute scale while a second indicator, an
arrow, also ticks around. Gently breathing on the crystal
causes the word "mystery" to appear.
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N
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O
Oscillation: The travel of the balance wheel from one
extreme to the other and back again. See Vibration.
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P
Pedometer: A device that counts the number of strides
taken by the wearer by responding to the impact of the
wearer's steps.
Perpetual Calendar:
A calendar that automatically adjusts for the months'
varying length and for leap year. Perpetual calendars, which
can be powered by quartz or mechanical movements, are
programmed to be accurate until the year 2100. Many watch
collectors suggest storing mechanical versions in motorized
winding boxes when they aren't being worn in order to
maintain the calendar countdown.
Plating: Coating a
metal base with another metal. In watch making a stainless
steel base is coated with gold seven to 20 microns thick.
Platinum: One of the
rarest of precious metals, platinum also is one of the
strongest and heaviest, making it a popular choice for
setting gemstone jewelry and watches. It has a rich, white
luster, and an understated look. Platinum is hypoallergenic
and tarnish resistant. Platinum used in jewelry and watches
is at least 85 to 95 percent pure. Many platinum watches are
produced in limited editions due to the expense and rarity
of the metal.
Polished: Brilliant
metal surface obtained on the watch-case with fine abrasive.
Power Reserve: The
amount of energy reserve stored up to keep a watch running
until it stops. The remaining power is sometimes indicated
by a small gauge on the dial. For mechanical watches it is
usually 44 hours. For quartz watches it can vary from 18
moths to 10 years.
Power Reserve Indicator:
A feature of a mechanical watch that shows how much longer
the watch will operate before it must be wound again.
Pulsimeter: Scale on
a chronograph watch for measuring the pulse rate.
Push-piece: Button
that is pressed to work a mechanism. (The push-pieces on
chronographs, striking watches, alarms, etc.)
PVD: Physical Vapor
Deposition. Method of coating thin watch cases by
integrating titanium particles and then depositing gold for
color.
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Q
Quartz: A natural or commercially synthesized silicon
dioxide crystal. Used in "quartz analog" or solid state
digital watches. When activated by a battery or solar power,
the thin sliver of crystal very predictably vibrates at an
extremely high frequency (32,768 times per second) thus
providing very accurate timekeeping. The main components
are: an Electric Circuit Block (Quartz Oscillator and CMOS-IC)
and the Mechanical Block (step motor, gear train, hands) and
a battery.
Quartz Movement: A
movement which allows a watch to keep time without being
wound. This technology employs the vibrations of a tiny
crystal to maintain timing accuracy. The power comes from a
battery that must be replaced about every 1.5 years. In
recent years, new quartz technology enables the watch to
recharge itself without battery replacement. This power is
generated via body motion similar to an automatic mechanical
watch, or powered by light through a solar cell, or even by
body heat. A digital quartz watch has no mechanical parts.
Most quartz movements are made in Hong Kong, Japan or
Switzerland.
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R
Ratchet bezel ring: A bezel ring which can either
turn one way (counter clockwise) or both ways and generally
clicks into place.
Repeater: A device
that chimes the time when the wearer pushes a button.
Rose (or pink) Gold:
A softly hued gold that contains the same metals as yellow
gold but with a higher concentration of copper in the alloy.
A popular color in Europe, rose gold in watches is often
seen in retro styling or in tricolor gold versions. Some 18k
red gold watches achieve their color from additional copper
in the alloy.
Rotating Bezel: A
bezel (the ring surrounding the watch face) that can be
turned. Different types of rotating bezels perform different
timekeeping and mathematical functions.
Rotor: The part of
an automatic watch that winds the movement’s main spring.
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S
Sand-blasting: Creating a granular metal finish by
using a high-pressure jet of sand.
Sapphire Crystal: A
crystal (the cover that protects the watch face) made of
synthetic sapphire, a transparent shatter-resistant,
scratch-resistant substance.
Sapplex Crystal:
Combination of sapphire and hardlex crystals.
Screw-Lock Crown: A
crown which aids water resistance by sealing the crown
against the case. The seal is achieved by the matching of a
threaded pipe on the case with the crown's internal threads
and gasketing while twisting the crown to lock it into
place.
Seal: Synthetic
gaskets that seal the joints between parts of the case and
keep out the wet.
Second Time-Zone
Indicator: An additional dial that can be set to the
time in another time zone. It lets the wearer keep track of
local time and the time in another country simultaneously.
Shock Absorber:
Resilient bearing which, in a watch, is intended to take up
the shocks received by the balance staff and thus protects
its delicate pivots from damage.
Shock Resistance: As
defined by the US government regulation, a watch's ability
to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto
wood floor from a height of 3 feet.
Shot-blasting: A
satin finish obtained by using tiny glass pellets, one or
two microns in diameter.
Skeleton Case: A
case with a transparent front or back that allows the wearer
to view the watch's movement.
Slide Rule: A
device, consisting of logarithmic or other scale on the
outer edge of the watch face that can be used to do
mathematical calculations.
Solar Compass: A
compass that lets the wearer determine the geographical
poles by means of a rotating bezel. The wearer places the
watch so that the hour hand faces the sun. He then takes
half the distance between the position and 12 o'clock, and
turns the bezel until its "south" marker is at that halfway
point. Some quartz watches have solar compasses that show
directions on an LCD display.
Solar Powered Batteries:
Batteries in a quartz watch that are recharged via solar
panels on the watch face.
Solid State: A
timepiece with no moving parts. All digital watches are 100%
solid state. Analog watches combine solid state circuits
with moving parts.
Split time measurement:
Measures the elapsed time of a certain moment of an event.
If you want to know the
elapsed time at a certain point during a track meet, you can
tell exact time by using this.
The chronograph keeps
running while split time is being displayed. Therefore, when
split time is released the display returns to original
measurement of total elapsed time.
Stainless steel, an
extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main
ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration,
and corrosion; it can be highly polished, thus resembling a
precious metal. Because of its strength, stainless steel is
often used even on case backs on watches made of other
metals.
Split Seconds Hand:
Actually two hands, one a fly back hand the other a regular
chronograph hand. When the wearer starts the chronograph,
both hands move together. To time laps or different
finishing times, the wearer can stop the fly back hand
independently while the regular chronograph hand keeps
moving, in effect "splitting" the hand(s) in two.
Stainless Steel: An
extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main
ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration
and corrosion; it can be highly polished, thus representing
a precious metal. Due to this and the importance of white
metal jewelry, steel has become a popular setting for
diamonds. Because of its strength, stainless steel is often
used even on casebacks of watches made of other metals.
Strap: A watch band
made of leather, plastic or fabric.
Subdial: A small
dial used for any of several purposes, such as keeping track
of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph or indicating
the date.
Sun/moon indicator:
A wheel on a watch partially visible through a cut-out
window indicating a sun and moon on a 24-hour basis.
Stepping Motor: The
part of a quartz movement that moves the gear train, which
in turn moves the watch's hands.
Sterling Silver: A
white and highly reflective precious metal. Sterling silver
refers to silver that is 92.5 percent pure, which should be
stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by the initials
of the designer or the country of orgin as a hallmark.
Although less durable than stainless steel and other
precious metals, sterling silver is often employed in
watches that coordinate or look like sterling silver
jewelry. A protective coating may be added to prevent
tarnishing.
Stopwatch: A watch
with a seconds hand that measures intervals of time. When a
stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the
stopwatch function and the timepiece are referred to as a
"chronograph".
Subdial: A small
dial on the watch face used for any of several purposes,
such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on the
chronograph or indicating the date.
Swiss Made: A watch
is considered Swiss if its movement was assembled, started,
adjusted and controlled by the manufacturer in Switzerland.
Swiss A.O.S.C. (Certificate of Orgin): A mark
identifying a watch that is assembled in Switzerland with
components of Swiss orgin.
Sweep Seconds-Hand:
A seconds-hand that is mounted in the center of the watch
dial.
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T
Tachymeter (also tachometer): A watch function that
measures the speed at which the wearer traveled by means of
a numeric scale on the watch bezel of a chronograph.
Frequently used to determine a speed of a car over a
measured distance.
Tank Watch: A
rectangular watch designed by Louis Cartier. The bars along
the sides of the watch were inspired by the tracks of tanks
used in World War I.
Telemeter: A
telemeter determines the distance of an object from the
observer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that
distance. Like a tachymeter, it consists of a stopwatch, or
chronograph, and a special scale, usually on the outermost
edge of the watch face.
30-Minute Recorder (or
register): A subdial on a chronograph that can time
periods of up to 30 minutes.
Timer: Instrument
used for registering intervals of time (durations, brief
times), without any indication of the time of day.
Titanium: The "space
age" metal, often used with a silver-gray appearance.
Because it is 30 percent stronger and nearly 50 percent
lighter than steel it has been increasingly used in watch
making, especially sport watch styles. Its resistance to
salt water corrosion makes it particularly useful in diver's
watches. Since it can be scratched fairly easy, some
manufacturers use a patented-coating to resist scratching.
Hypoallergenic.
Tonneau Watch: A
watch shaped like a barrel, with two convex sides.
Totalizer: A
mechanism that keeps track of elapsed time and display it,
usually on a subdial.
Tourbillon: A device
in a mechanical watch that eliminates timekeeping errors
cause by the slight difference in the rates at which a watch
runs in the horizontal and vertical positions. The
tourbillon consist of round carriage, or cage, holding the
escapement and the balance. It rotates continuously at the
rate of once per minute.
Tritium: An isotope
of hydrogen that is used to activate the luminous dots or
indices on a watch dial. The radioactivity released in this
process is too slight to pose a health risk.
Two Tone: A watch
that combines two metals, usually yellow gold and stainless
steel in the case of fine watches.
12-Hour Recorder (or
Register): A subdial on a chronograph that can time
periods of up to 12 hours.
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U
Uni-directional Rotating Bezel: An elapsed time
rotating bezel, often found on divers' watches, that moves
only in a counterclockwise direction. It is designed to
prevent a diver who has unwittingly knocked the bezel off
its original position from overestimating his remaining air
supply. Because the bezel moves in only one direction, the
diver can error only on the side of safety when timing his
dive. Many divers' watches are ratcheted, so that they lock
into place for greater safety.
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V
VHP: Very High Precision. A quartz movement with a
temperature sensor to keep rate variations to within
extremely narrow margins. The movement corrects itself to a
precision of ?0 seconds a year.
Vibration: Movement
of a pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by two
consecutive extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical
watch generally makes five or six vibrations per second
(i.e. 18,000 or 21,600 per hour), but that of a
high-frequency watch may make seven, eight or even ten
vibrations per second (i.e. 25,200, 28,800 or 36, 000 per
hour).
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W
Waterproof: An illegal and misused term. No watch is
fully 100 percent waterproof.
Water Resistance: A
water resistant watch can handle light moisture, such as a
rain or sink splashes, but should not be worn swimming or
diving. If the watch can be submerged in water, it must
state at what depth it maintains water resistance, i.e. 50
meters or more on most sport watches. Below 200 meters, the
watch may be used for skin diving and even scuba diving
depending upon the indicated depths.
Sometimes water-resistance is measured in atmospheres (ATM),
which is equal to 10 meters of water pressure. (Some
European-made watches use the term "bar" instead). Straps
other than metal bracelets may not be water-resistant. New
water-resistant versions of nylon, rubber, and other
synthetics are a trend in sport watches.
Watches come in different
water resistant depths and diver's depths:
- Water resistant—Will
withstand splashes of water or rain but should not be
worn while swimming or diving.
- Water tested to 50
meters (165 feet)—Suitable for showering or swimming in
shallow water.
- Water tested to 100
meters (330 feet)—Suitable for swimming or snorkeling.
- Water tested to 150
meters (500 feet)— Suitable for snorkeling.
- Water tested to 200
meters (660 feet)—Suitable for skin diving.
- Diver's to 150
meters—Meets ISO Standards and is suitable for scuba
diving.
- Diver's to 200
meters—Meets ISO Standards and is suitable for scuba
diving.
White Gold: Created
from yellow gold by incorporating either nickel or palladium
to the alloy to achieve a white color. Most watches made of
white gold will be 18k.
White On: An analog
watch that is able to display digital functions at the touch
of a button. An easily legible white numeric display appears
on the inside surface of the crystal when any digital
function is activated.
Winding: Operation
consisting in tightening the mainspring of a watch. This can
be done by hand (by means of the crown) or automatically (by
means of a rotor, which is caused to swing by the movements
of the wearer's arm).
Winding Stem: The
button on the right side of the watch case used to wind the
mainspring. Also called a "crown".
World Time Dial: A
dial, usually on the outer edge of the watch face, that
tells the time up to 24 time zones around the world. The
time zones are represented by the names of cities printed on
the bezel or dial. The wearer reads the hour in a particular
time zone by looking at the scale next to the city that the
hour hand is pointing to. The minutes are read as normal.
Watches with this feature are called "world timers".
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X
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Y
Yacht Timer: A countdown timer that sounds warning
signals during the countdown to a boat race.
Yellow Gold: The
traditionally popular gold used in all gold, gold and
stainless steel, or other precious metal combinations.
Yellow gold watches may be found in 14k or, as found from
most European manufacturers, 18k.
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Z
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Quartz
vs. Mechanical
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